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Sam Bleakley is a presenter, writer and former multiple European Longboard Champion from Cornwall. Sam will be talking about his book Mindfulness & Surfing: reflections for saltwater souls and also about his film work with emerging surf cultures in West Africa, South East Asia and the Caribbean. He will also discuss his surfing explorations of Haiti for his recently completed PhD.
Mindfulness is usually described as an inward looking process. Surfing as mindfulness, however, does something a little different – it centres us within our environment to find our place. We are immersed in water and the salt-soaked zone just above the sea’s skin so mindfulness in surfing becomes, paradoxically, a moving out of mind into the world where winds, currents, beach shapes, wave types and lunar-tidal movements meet. In this sense, we move from egology to ecology and generate a ‘bodymindfulness’, locating ourselves in place and space.